Thursday, August 27, 2009

The Shipley Girls


I love this picture of Tish (my mother,) Gran and Aunt Bun in Beach Haven. Plaid was in then too, tu vois? I predict this to be a big plaid year and my thought is to wear a Liberty of London shirt with a plaid kilt over Paul Smith skinny jeans. The girls will never forgive me!

Wednesday, August 26, 2009

Raising the Bar


I sold my house in the Hudson Valley today and I am absolutely thrilled. No regrets. I have moved on. I will though miss with all my heart all the wonderful people I have met, that I've learned so much from—but all those people, the ones that stick, will always be in my life. I am as faithful as my German short-haired pointer, Clementine.

I've been thinking about all of the things I am grateful for. Sometimes I feel really lucky, sometimes I feel really blessed, sometimes I feel like I just work really really hard. But, mostly, I just feel grateful for all the lessons that I've learned along the way, for the love I've received and been able to give in return.

I want to do interesting things for the rest of my life, but more importantly, I want to do good things. I want to love and respect myself and earn others love and respect. I want to go to sleep at night with a clear conscience and know that I made someone else's life better every day. These are my simple goals. I'm raising the bar.

Saturday, June 20, 2009

Joyeuse Fête des Pères!!



My girls + I
have the
2
best dads
in the world!
Bowdie et Dan,
les deux
meilleurs papas du monde!!

Sunday, June 07, 2009

Weekend a` la Campagne





It was so beautiful in les monts du Lyonnais. Hard not to love it. The dogs are happy, the girls are happy, I am happy.

Monday, June 01, 2009

Vide Grenier


In a little town, Grezieu le marché, on the border of the Rhone and the Loire, this is what I found this morning. I love to go antiquing and yard saleing. I am a born buyer and it gives me such pleasure to find beautiful things and see them come together. I always have a theme, a story, going in my head, which could be color, subject matter, style or some other unifying factor. One week I might be taken by imagery of woman, or vintage typography, things that are silver toned, things that have been stamped, rustic ironstone. And it is only when I arrive home with my basket filled with stuff, that I become aware of the thoughts that lead me around all day, all week, all month, all year.

Friday, May 15, 2009

Tennis Anyone?


Tomorrow is the bi-annual tennis round robin at our very sweet tennis club in La Croix Rousse, and hopefully we will all be brave enough to play, haha. Not wearing an outfit like this however...

Les Ados + being an Expatriate


Oh la la to be 14 again (no thanks :) I never pictured myself living on my own with 2 teenage girls and 2 dogs in France. But, here I am and while this is truly the most challenging experience I have every had, it is also the coolest and most fulfilling. Every single day, I am stretched in ways I have never been before. fascinating/hard/lonely/amazing/thrilling/frustrating/allthat

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

Mowing the Fields




I am really behind on yard work and when I say yard work, I mean really field work. When we arrived this weekend at Balmont, I was flabbergasted by how high the grass had grown (and is it really grass?) Surrounding our house, all the way up to the front steps was knee-high green. "Je dois tondre les prés," I say to the farmer next door, who looks at me like I am absolutely out of my mind, images of Carrie and "Sex and the City" flashing through his head. My daughter, Abbie, asked me if I had ever owned a pair of Manolo Blahniks. I must draw the line somewhere. These days, I can be found exclusively on the weekends in my old pair of leather Vejas, painty, ripped pants and comfy "le love" shirt {a Basic French exclusive,} cutting down les lilas to offer in bouquets to my neighbors, pulling up the endless mauvaise herbes, and mowing the fields...

Monday, May 11, 2009

Night Sky


It's staying light until about 9 at night. I love that.

Sunday, May 10, 2009

Le Printemps




I have become such an urban girl again, living in Lyon over the last 20 months that I truly have a hard time dragging myself out of the city to our amazing little country house only 50 minutes from the center of the Presqu'ile (almost island.) But wow, when I do, I can't believe how unbelievable it is and how truly rural France is. And the funny thing, after a day or two, I truly have a hard time dragging myself away from our little hamlet. I am blessed with my lovely, blossoming girls, my sweet and loving dogs and this dual life I lead. I am so grateful.

Saturday, May 09, 2009

Trop Fun!

It was so beautiful in les Monts du Lyonnais and we just had too much fun.

Monday, November 24, 2008

Wednesday, April 30, 2008

Wild Thing


I have really had my brain full recently. This has been one of the most therapeutic few weeks for me and I am feeling really incredible, after feeling really crappy. Again, I think it's the Spring thing, the rebirth thing, but for me it is also silently, quietly a reminder of 3 major springtime losses that I have had in my life, that I have never been able to grieve properly, or is that what I am doing now, this Spring in Lyon that feels so intense?

The loss of Michael, my closest friend in Philadelphia, who really got me and loved me the way I was, who whistled outside my window on summer nights, beckoning me to go out and be wild. He was stabbed to death on South Street the night before he took his architectural boards. He was a John Doe at the morgue because he didn't have his wallet on him. He was mad at me because I had left him behind and moved to New York. He would barely speak to me. He never forgave me, even though I tried to break through. The loss of Manny, my big brother in the city, Cajun boy, amazing chef who smoked cigars, shared my passion for France in a car, taught me about foie gras and Monbazillac, defended my broken heart (post Jean-Luc.) He drowned, scuba diving. He had just fallen in love. We had talked the week before. And, the illness of Halliday, my beautiful older daughter, which left scars on my life that will never go away, and on hers. Spring just feels so painful yet beautiful to me.

At 2 in the morning, when I could not sleep because I was so flipping angry at another male friend of mine (that, an entirely other story) and mostly angry at myself, again, I began making sense of all of these crazy feelings.

I am tired of being treated like I am invisible. I am tired of trying to get the attention of people who are too busy to be present. I am weary of those who cannot talk about what's really going on, or think deeply. I am sick of hearing myself talk. I am embracing the amazing young girl that I was and am trying so hard to be proud of my inner wildness and my unbridled creative spirit that has often been criticized, condemned. I am trying not to criticize myself. I am trying to look at the whole picture and not stumble into superficial holes. I want to tell the truth about a lot of things. I want to speak my mind even though it's just my mind. I am finished with my old story and am starting a new one, but I am reintroducing a character that I was told to leave behind, because she was so challenging, so untamable. I know that is the only way I can go forward and write my next chapter. I must wear myself like a badge of honor. Manny and Michael loved me as I was, crazy, wild, raw, emotional, so deeply sensitive, spontaneous, vulnerable, dependable, true...and selfishly, I feel such a loss without them in this world. My springtime loss, a deep hole I am trying to fill with reflection.

At 2 in the morning, I read my weekly horoscope. Here's what it said:

"He who cannot howl
will not find his pack."


{Charles Simic}

Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Joyeux Anniversaire



The loveliest 11 year old I have ever met!

Monday, April 28, 2008


L'absence n'est-elle pas, pour qui aime,

la plus certaine, la plus efficace, la
plus vivace, la plus

indestructible, la plus fidèle des présences?


{Marcel Proust}


Friday, April 25, 2008

En Exile de la Presqu'ile


We are in exile (does that mean "out of the island"?) from the "almost island," the Manhattan of Lyon, the 2nd arrondisement, 69002. I rented our apartment to a friend from New York for a few days and now am in forced exile in the country. Poor me, going from one amazing, chic city apartment to one bucolic, peaceful hamlet, with only 48 minutes in between. What's remarkable though is the difference in me. I feel like I am equally country girl and city girl, split in two.

I am sitting on an old stone foundation, crossed legged, in my gym clothes (from 2 days ago) and my favorite Vega sneakers. Haven't taken a shower, brushed my hair or put on lip gloss in 24 hours. Forget why I even do this. Hmmmm. I'm listening to the Charolais cows mooing and the echoes of that in the valley below, the trickle of water, a spring perhaps, the birds singing happily, a bee pollinating clover. Things zoom by, insects, lizards peep their heads out of stone walls and run quickly in the last rays of the sun. I can see miles away, nothing but open farmland, cultivated in patchwork green, mountains in the background, a magical forest on one side, rolling fields on the other. I am too lucky. C'est trop beau.

I haven't accomplished much today, or rather feel that way. We're sort of on vacation (I'm never on vacation—workaholic that I am,) but I did make vegetable soup, bring loads of logs inside, light a fire, keep it going all day, check emails and make web changes, call an electrician, text an old boyfriend, make pasta for the girls, gossip about men with Flo. I get into a different rhythm here and I love it—but I do feel less productive. I am out of contact even though I have a cell, landline and the most absurdly slow internet possible. We played tennis this morning and jogged, forgot that. It felt so good to be outside, I love to be outside. And now, trying to soak in those last remaining rays of warmth, I realize, this is my home. This house is so comforting to me, just the way my house in Red Hook has been for 16 years. I feel safe here. I feel blessed with all that I have in my life.

Things to get at the épicerie in Larajasse: chevre, lardons, du lait frais, de l'ail, oignons, les fraises (garrigettes) et un bouteille d'eau.

Saturday, April 19, 2008

Le soleil, le soleil


Had the most wonderful time at Cyril's the other night, the Bistrot du Boulevard, our Thursday night hang out. It's the neighborhood restaurant that you always dream of having in your neighborhood. In my case, it's not in my neighborhood, but rather in my friends' neighborhood, kind of the way Bolgen + Moi was when I lived in the Hudson Valley. Wow, just love having a place to call mine, where I walk in and people know me, yet it's filled with everything new and the possibility of hearing many life stories, of telling your own once again, of being heard, of making yourself understood. I've been telling my story a lot lately and it feels really good.

Friday, April 18, 2008

I am here


I feel like jumping up and down, it is so gorgeous today!

Thursday, April 17, 2008

Silence Speaks Louder Than Words

Where I come from, silence has a very loud message...disapproval, so no wonder I have the hardest time listening to silence. I attribute all kinds of bad judgements to it—suddenly, I am the kid in trouble, feeling desperate to win back approval, whatever the price (cher;) These days, I have been hearing a lot of silence and my reaction has been different. Yes, I've run thru the litany of self-deprecating insults already. I've felt sad, I've felt insulted, I've felt wronged, misunderstood, ashamed, embarassed, shocked. I swear, I have felt it all at the same time, but the resounding feeling, the feeling I woke up with yesterday, today is this:
I feel free. You gotta love it! Embrace the silence!

Tuesday, April 08, 2008

Oh, merde


L'homme m'etonnera toujours car il peut aussi bien
marcher dans la merde que sur la lune




I can't believe it takes only 2 1/2 hours to get to Uzes from here. It feels so radically different. France is crazy that way. Drive one hour and the architecture, vegetation, accent, stone color and produce have all changed. Lunch at Terroirs, an amazing place that serves tapas and tart-like pizzas, can resusitate even the most weary (that would be me, who can barely sleep these days.) I am starving and yet a small salad with the freshest lettuce, lightest vinagrette and ceviche of Coquilles St. Jacques with pink grapefruit slices, totally satiates me. The sun is amazing. I am a sun worshipper of late. The local rosé is fresh and delicious and I have fallen in love with the south of France, again, again. We girls bask, Daisy poses in my new basket, the Saturday market stirs around us and I feel so happy.




This is my third time visiting Uzes in 5 weeks and each time I am more comfortable here, feel like it's a place I will come back to. Sometimes it's great to explore new places, but sometimes, these days for me, it's great to just go back to places I know. Less stressful. I have really been trying to limit the stress in my life, as this year (these past years, hmmm when did it start?) has been mega stressful. Flaux, a mini village with few inhabitants is where we stay. La Mona, Franck Valtat's bed and breakfast is beautiful and stylish. Being the incredibly picky person that I am about aesthetics, I can always find something to complain about wherever I stay, but Franck (ex-Parisian, Heschung boot-wearer, apricot confiture-maker) has it going on. His place is amazing, tasteful and so relaxing.



Sleepy now. Been thinking too much. Feeling like a teenager when springtime came around, remembering how breezy life was back then, breezy and intense. Still have images floating around in my head, dreamed about going to Chile, dreamed about the sun shining so bright it hurt, casting a light so clear down on me. Somehow, I am trying to bring all of these floating images together, images of my profound simplicity, enduring, my deeply emotional nature, lunar child, wanting to do something that means something, something tangible. The sun shines on me. I have been here before. {I have walked in these shoes, they protect me.} It feels raw, it feels warm, it feels familiar. It's an old feeling. Do all roads lead to the same place, I wonder?


Thursday, April 03, 2008

The Simple Truth


An early start for Saint-Martin-en-Haut to get my car repaired. It's rainy and cold and I am praying its going to be warm and sunny this weekend. We are going to Uzes, gorgeous town in the Languedoc-Roussillon region with my marraine (godmother), Cynthia, or Auntie Tint as we used to call her, staying at my favorite chambre d'hote, La Mona, in Flaux, a jewel that the girls and I discovered on a recent trip to La Cote D'Azur. Today, also going to Saint Symphorien sur Coise to pay a bill long overdue, to visit my adopted family here in France at their amazing, amazing atelier Objet de Curiosité. They have really inspired me and my house in the country is filled with objets de curiosité and paintings of my very very dear friend Isabelle Grange.



In a café in Saint Martin. They know me now as it's ma petite pause preférée in the area. 2 completely drunk old guys at the bar who think they are so funny. It starts early for some folks, I guess. They are trashed. Carole, the server, is rewriting the menu du jour on a chalk board with a really cool pen that looks like white-out but is really like liquid chalk. She has the best script writing. They offer only one choice here, but it's always delicious, hardy and fresh. I love the simplicity of it all—we have too many choices. Life is too complicated.

I was thinking about myself the other day. I was at my coiffeur (most lovely place in Lyon) having my hair cut radically and my meches done, and while Guy was rinsing my hair, he knocked out one of my earrings and down the drain it went. I have been wearing the same earrings that I bought at Barneys downtown 20 years ago—for 20 years I guess. Maybe I have changed them briefly twice or 3 times. Barney's had the best antique jewelry section ever and I coveted these earrings for months before getting up the courage to buy them. They are the perfect little gold studs with tiny star diamonds in the center. Anyway, thinking about myself, I think I am funny in the way that I don't change my style much—and I think at the core I am very very simple, and conservative. I really need very little in terms of stuff, to be happy. Just the perfect sponge, café au lait bowl, dish detergent or charm bracelet—and the perfect pair of earrings.

Earring rescued. I am relieved not to have to change my style. It's conservative me, Agnes B, Paul Smith, Morgane le Fay, my favorite earrings and the perfect café, on the quintessential rainy day, in the most beautiful place in this simple country.

Wednesday, April 02, 2008

Roaming


I have been roaming around Lyon a bit these last few days, looking for springish inspiration, my head full of images, things I am trying to fuse together into I am not sure what yet—a collage, a Basic French project, a good deed—don't know yet. I have this impression that every Spring about this time I find myself roaming around in this same way. When I lived in Philadelphia and New York in my 20s and 30s, I would roam through book stores and second-hand stores collecting images of typography, colors, people, things that somehow touched me and were permitted space in my image bank. Usually I would make something by hand—a card, a love letter, coalescing (now spontaneous tears, where do those come from?) these disparate visual things, words heard, glances stolen into something, something I could touch or could touch someone.

After moving to the country in my 30s, when time was scarce and little people were my primary focus, I would steal away and roam through antique stores, junk stores (my all-time favorite being Hoffman's barn in Red Hook.) I was distracted, spacing out in my own world, my private Idaho. I think I was hard to live with at these times, I needed so desperately to be mentally alone, to disconnect.

Spring roaming took me on back country roads, collecting colors of white red barns against bright blue skies, monochrome landscapes, images of things decomposing from Winter's snow cover, images of small, delicate flowers erupting with life's vitality from that same ground. At these times, I found myself paying the toll for the car behind me on the Rhinebeck/Kingston Bridge, feeling rich with Spring, fecund.

So I find myself, now in France, roaming, first with intention, now abstractly lost. I have found a new typeface that I love (thanks Ka, awesome designer and web guru :) and I have found that I like the colors yellow and orange (when I thought I never would) and not red (still.) I have found that stripes are "tendances" as always and that Habitat at Place de la Republique never lets me down. I am inspired by t-shirts (girl at my gym wearing simple black one with large, ornate wing etchings silkscreened in gold, nice—wings of desire?






I was really inspired by a table display at Coté Maison of not celadon green, but more grassy celadon and dove grey hand-made faience pottery with olive nid d'abeille dishtowels and multistripe (again) napkins. Desire a powder pink linen tablecloth...gotta love the French! I was inspired by colored toilet paper (lime, orange, cyan, black??) coming soon to BF, and colored paper towels that could very well replace napkins chez nous this summer.

Electronic music, if you can believe it, has been fitting into this mix, even Daft Punk I have been dancing around to...the Psychedelic Furs (love love love, you can't give it away,) Vincent Delerme, Bierut, the Perishers, the Eels. Usually at this time, I like things that make me feel extremely—either extremely ridiculously happy or deeply profoundly to the core sad, all in the same day. I like these emotional extremes. They are like Spring cleaning, things piled up in the closet that must be considered, viewed and then stored away with intention or tossed out.

Tonight, I woke from a deep sleep, lay there thinking about all that I could do if I got up, bills to pay, webedits, laundry. I kept thinking about wanting to do something, a project outside myself, like creating an inspirational venue for young girls, designing empowering t-shirts and donating the proceeds to a non-profit. I feel like I want to bloom, I am spilling forth with images and inspiration. I got up to (au moins) make the list of what I need to do today, and here I am, toile notebook in hand, trying to make something physical, something that counts (lasts, endures.) How much can I give back today, I wonder? And what would a French person think if I paid their toll?

Sunday, March 23, 2008

Joyeux Pâques + Bad Hair Lady


I am restarting my blog today. It's Easter and it's snowing here in Lyon. I am looking out from our top floor apartment at Place Ampere. This is really the first snow of the season, March 23rd, the earliest Easter since 1913. I love Lyon, today I love it more than ever because it is comforting to me even though I find this end-of-winter period always absolutely grueling to put up with. I love Lyon because it feels safe and not scary and not suburban, and not banal. It is filled with all the elegant families that we went to church with this morning at St. Martin D'Ainay, it is filled with techno teenagers, gyrating their skinny bodies, shaking off their bridge and tunnel existences (because that exists here too, tu vois), it's filled with transplants like me, and then there's Bad Hair Lady.




We have been cultivating our relationship with BHL for a while now. She appeared here in the quartier d'Ainay about 2 months ago and in the beginning we could only remark on the very knotty mass of blond, strawberry blond craziness on the back of her head, randomly attached in a bunnish type of thing. I asked, "is that a man or a woman?" We didn't know, but we were somewhat put out that we had this recurrent reminder in our chic neighborhood of mental illness, alcoholism (though she is not the only homeless presence around, just the most
constant and compelling.)

The snow falls, I think about how I managed to avoid the cold and snow of the Hudson Valley this winter—bliss—never going back to that—can't be a northeast winter person anymore—must tell the truth. I hate winter.

The snow falls in a light flurry quand même and
I want to tell the story about Bad Hair Lady (now a term of endearment.) I decide in a very indecisive way that I wanted to reach out to her. She seemed lonely. I have been lonely too this winter—was I projecting that? One night coming home from a gallery opening at Jean-Louis Mandon's, a lonely event but a lovely walk home through my sweet village barren neighborhood, I saw her there. I said, " Bonsoir Madame," (she looked up out of her mad reverie, her deep conversation with her interlocuteurs.) "Bonsoir Madame," j'ai dit, "Nous, nous pensons à vous." I wanted her to know that we, those who seem so connected to the world, who have our feet seemingly on the ground, we are thinking of her. We are grounded?, we therefore ground her? Just wondering.

Anyway, she seemed pleased. I felt pleased. The rain rained on me that night. Lyon was beautiful. Weeks, months passed and she has captured us—not that she is so captivating by any means. She continues to have a messy knot of hair, she smells, sometimes she's swilling a beer and super happy, sometimes she's comatose or talking to her inner voices. But we continue to try to break through, the girls and I, to treat her with what I love about France, politeness and respect. All we say is "Bonjour Madame, vous allez bien?" It's a minimum. She descends from her reverie. She meets us for one brief instant—then back she goes.

This has all helped me to equalize my world. I hate that people think that I have a charmed life. I want people to see me as I am, with a real life. Any
way, BHL, she makes me feel real—she balances my life. A glimmer of light outside, the lightest of lightest snowflakes float by, not fall.

Today, Easter, I have given myself over to consumption of chocolate. We started around 10 and ate until we felt sick. Church at 11. St. Martin D'Ainay, the most glorious church—such a good feeling place, with the hidden families, actually relaxed—service in Latin and every prayer sung so beautifully. Chic man next to me with great glasses, knows all the prayers, knows all the Latin song prayers. He is curious about us, everyone is curious about us. The front of the church is filled with all the old families—the young ones so lovely— I crush on the perfect 20 year old boy—he stares at me always—I am different—he is curious.

We all laugh about the pious unknowing acolytes. Today is a high holy day and the mini monks in long robes of ivory with belts of cotton cord like friars—oh, they are so proud. They carry bougeoirs (candleholders) bigger than themselves—they practically catch themselves on fire (they are 6, they are 8, their robes are trippable) I am proud for them—they are proud—they swing the incense thing and it smells so good. It's a high holy day here in Lyon. It's flurrying. They practiced with the priest.





As we leave our church, 11th century amazing place that transports, we see Bad Hair Lady sitting on a stone stoop, in the freezing rain, without complaint. We rush home because we are underdressed, overdressed and we can't take that winter finally arrived here. But we know we have to go back. We have to wish her Happy Easter, we are filled with the Easter feeling—is it Jesus, is it humanity, is it compassion?

Five minutes later, out of our church clothes, we walk back with our Monoprix chocolate egg. "Joyeux Pâcques, Madame," Halliday says. "Ah, j'ai déjà trop de chocolat, puis-je l'accepter?" (Oh, I already have so much chocolate, must I accept it?") "Oui", we say, trying between our awkwardness of language and of offering a silly precious present to a homeless woman, who doesn't even really want it—to do the right thing.

We move on, Easter experience recorded, knowing that next time our gift will be the banana suggested or the baguette thought of. And, for all of those who deride church, who think that religion is bullshit, I want to say that we were filled with the spirit of giving because we went to church this morning—and we wanted to share with BHL because we knew we had enough here in Lyon. So, this Easter is dedicated to Bad Hair Lady and to Lyon, a city so sweet and now precious to me that I am filled with a desire and an ability to give back. Joyeux Pâques!

Monday, August 01, 2005

Dans les Valises

I’m packing today to come home. Yuck. I hate this part, but at least I get to come back in 3 weeks for Salon Maison et Objet. Should be fun. We need some new stuff at Basic French for Xmas. We’ve been soooooo busy this summer.

Anyway, I’m depressed about leaving, but when I get home, I am going to post all the notes that I wrote while here as if I am still here and not there. I also took tons of digital photos, so if I can only learn to post them, it will be gooooooood. Amazing that on vacation I have no free time, and at home I imagine I’ll have more. Hmmmmmm. How’s that gonna work?

Can’t wait to see Clementine (adorable, snuggly, german short-haired pointer who eats foie gras and steaks and anything off the table and thinks she’s a lapdog,) and talk to my friends and family and BF folks. Excited about working. I have big plans for BF for this year, both the web and a new catalogue in the works. Changing venues has been excellent for my head. I have so many new ideas.

Tune in later this week for photos and what actually happened in the last month. I bought a ton of stuff for BF and shipped back 12 cartons. Coordinated another shipment from Marseille with lots of new bath products. Exciting. Okay, now I have to pack while the girls are sleeping...

Wednesday, July 20, 2005

The Big Apology et la Piscine

OK, I have to just get this off my chest. I feel so badly that I haven’t been able to keep up with my blog. I have been writing notes everyday, but I never have enough quiet time to actually type and post them. Plus, I have dialup access to the internet and after reluctantly converting to DSL at home, it is excruciating to go back to dialup. Not to mention the 3 meals I must shop for, make, clean up after (the girls are starting to do the dishes, thank God) and the 5 loads of laundry to wash and hang on the clothes line (this I love, I am a laundry person, not a dish person.) Our busy social schedule, checking in with Basic French everyday, combined with a myriad of other things, et en plus having to stay on top of the frequent invasion of les petites betes (ants, serpents and earwhigs), makes me the inconsistent but ever hopeful blogger that I have become. Time just seems to be whizzing by and each day here is filled with experiences I never want to forget, that I want to eventually record. Wish I could just download my experiences directly. We have been in France five weeks now, and my life and thoughts have turned around in circles, it’s so amazing. The girls are flourishing too. They have changed so much and I see them becoming independent and confident in ways I never could have anticipated.

I could sit all day at the pool, spacing out, dreaming, reading french home decorating magazines. It’s so different from my life in Red Hook that I find it thoroughly relaxing, not boring. And, here in St. Galmier, a beautiful walled town in the department de la Loire, about 23 minutes from us porte a porte, we’ve discovered the best piscine. It’s a funny place, with all these crazy rules that at first I found intimidating and arbitrary, but now find comforting and logical. You can only bring towels and drinking water into the pool area, you must wear a swimming suit with NO cover-up into the pool area, boys/men must wear Speedo-style mini suits and expose all (as Henry found out the first day and had to rent one the second, buy one the third.) No shoes in the pool area, you must wear the key to your locker around your wrist and oh yes, no running IN THE POOL AREA. Anyway, it’s a fabulous place and now that we have befriended the Maitre Nageur (how do you say lifeguard?) we feel right at home.

The girls are taking swimming lessons, half in English, half in French (moitmoit, je dis) and it’s great for all of us. The instructors are learning the English words for reach, stretch, arms, kick, straighten and we, their French equivalents. The technique is different and I find the girls have improved their strokes. They are actually learning butterfly and flip turns. I didn’t even realize that they actually swam strokes until I got here. It’s a bit military though, the instruction. My new friend Judith said that Fabrice, le Maitre Nageur, most studly one, actually threw her unswimming daughter into the water screaming and taking in water each time until she learned to keep her mouth closed and overcame her fear of being underwater. Now that is what I call radical. But it works and the girls have become complete water bugs.

We love Yoann, the young, career Maitre Nageur from la Haute Loire, who moved to St. Etienne to be with his copine, Delphine, a beautician who works for a salon in St. Galmier. He is so earnest and genuine and interested in learning about America. I have given him a Daniel Pinkwater book of the girls called “Dorkula” for him to practice reading English. I keep teasing him that there will be a big exam when he’s finished and he dutifully is underlining words so that I can clarify passages for him. He dreams of coming to the states and going to Auburn University, just like a top French swimmer he has read about in his swimming magazine. Is that Auburn, NY? Cold there, I imagine. Anyway, he is dedicated and I love that about him. (I have since found out that Auburn University is in Auburn, Alabama...thanks to one of my patient readers.)

I have watched the girls change from unconscious little girls to self-conscious young ladies overnight. Abbie has an arduous suitor a la piscine named Jason (not exactly a French name, je dois dire.) He is smitten and runs around the pool saying, “Abigair” and then shooting her with his hands as pistols when she looks his way. She, of course, pretends to find all this annoying and awful, and runs back to me every 4 minutes complaining that he is driving her crazy. Yet, she can’t take her eyes off of him as he does goofy dives and belly flops with great abandon off the diving board, all the while screaming, “Abigair, regarde-moi!” And Hallie too has admirers. I see the boys her age hover around her and nervously talk amongst themselves, then try to catch her attention with flips and turns and silly things. They must wonder who these 2 exotic girls are. They do stand out in a crowd. What am I going to do with them in two years when they are truly blossoming bilingual preados, je me demande?

Sunday, July 03, 2005

Oui, C’est Mon Anniversaire!

Today is my birthday and I am awakened by the sound of my favorite neighbor, l’ancien Maire Bernard Jacoud who brings me each day the overflow of fresh delicacies from his garden. In the beginning of the season it is lettuce, lettuce and more lettuce. Then come les pommes de terre, les courgettes, les carottes. All of it delicious and as fresh as you can possibly imagine. The French eat what is in season. You don’t find a lot of exotic fruits and vegetables in the grocery store throughout the year, just what’s in season, and according to the book, “French Woman Don’t Get Fat,” eating fresh and local produce is one of the things that keeps those slim french bodies slim. (More on this later...)

The girls, Lisa and Henry are dying to break into song, but I must first pay my respects to my benefactor and friend. Mr. Jacoud has been my loyal champion, since the first moment I came to Larajasse. I tell him it’s my birthday and he gives me deux bises, a paternal hug and warm wishes. Later in the day, he leaves me a bouquet of fresh myrtilles he has picked nearby in the woods — the sweetest gesture, il me semble. The troops break into song and furnish me with lovely handmade cards. Henry’s says, “I love you so much.” It’s so sweet. And the girls are, as always, ebullient. I am so lucky to have them in my life.

Lisa is spoiling me today. She packs a picnic lunch of salmon on round swedish bread, bio yogurt, and nectarines and we head for the pool at St. Galmier. We are on a pool jag. Can’t get enough of it. Afterwards, we go to Botanic, one of my favorite gardening stores near St. Etienne and she buys me 2 beautiful green glazed urns for lavender, to put outside the house. I buy a double hammock on sale for the backyard. It’s awesome. I have always wanted a hammock.

Les nuits de la Pierre Bleue is an annual “festival itinérant des arts a la ferme” in a little-known region of la Loire, seemingly known for its bluestone. It is Kit, Isabelle’s talented and chaleureuse friend, owner of La Fée Carabine, a wonderful salon du thé in St. Galmier, who suggests we join her, her boyfriend Igor, and a friend for le bal a bistan. It is a curious thing and Lisa and I don’t know quite what to expect, but we are game for anything. We drive up and up and up into what seems like the outskirts of a tiny town with not much to offer and arrive at la maison de Noémi, a beautiful, old stone farmhouse, with a spectacular view of the plains below. Our entrance fee of 7 Euros per person seems reasonable for dinner and the unkown festivities which await us. It all is a bit hippyish to me, or babacool on dit en francais. Noémi’s son is a bard. The first performance is a bit of bohemian performance poetry, which I barely understand, and everyone sits around in a field on the ground (heureusement, no ticks!) and tries to appreciate how deep all this is trying to be. I gather the poetry is about a homeless guy in Paris. Lisa and I try to keep Daisy and the kids from attracting tooooooooo much attention to the only foreigners in the place.

Then dinner, ah no dinner, just les aperos, a plate of cheese or saucisson that we have to pay for en plus and which is not sensational. Henry, Abbie and Hallie have been running around playing cachecache with some french girls they’ve met and don’t care much about eating. We have been drinking local bio wine which is moyen, and chatting it up at our table, but we grown-ups are affamé. Finally, dinner, also not sensational, is available buffet style at 10:30 PM, followed by a tres bon dessert que j’ai bien aimé of unsweetened wheat biscuits and fresh cerises.

The dance began at 11 and we realized that everyone had really come for that, not for the moyen diner or the performance art. These folks love to dance and it was a traditional kind of thing with accordions and line dances that reminded me of a square dance. I was dying to dance, but it seemed very partner oriented. Our kids weren’t game, so it seemed we would be wannabes. Then, the band of 4, 2 accordions, a base? and something else, announced le bal d’Ecosse, which would be a Scottish jig thing, meaning to me, the Halliday shuffle (wish Bobbie and Mimi could see me now. I miss them soooooooooo much!), so bien sur, I wanted to dance. And thank God, Lisa did too! We had so much fun, and I personally was just getting going when the girls melted down and said they must go home and snooze. That’s the problem here...so much to do and so little time. As it is, the kids stay up until 11 or 12, but so does the sun and then the next morning, oh, la, la, it is hard to get up at a decent hour. I am racked with guilt if I wake up at 9, no matter when I went to sleep. I hate getting a late start, but late start becomes subjective here in France, amongst all my self-employed friends.

OK, time to wrap this one up. My birthday — good, better than most, my life — awesome and changing and challenging and fascinating and stressful and interesting to ME, but not necessarily to others. I’m all about the challenge and the deep stuff that is hard to talk about here on a blog. A few weeks late, and here is my birthday story. More to come...

Thursday, June 30, 2005

Busy Day

We slept in this morning as we are all exhausted by the heat and just in general. The buffet breakfast at Hotel Cayré, is amazing though not especially french and we meet some New Yorkers and a woman who grew up in the town next to my mother. It’s a small world after all (not that I ever doubted that song)

Off to the Bateau Mouche in the humidity. I must say that there is a depressing aspect to doing any of the touristy things in Paris, like anywhere. The people, the lines, the souvenirs are just not my thing, but the view of Paris is lovely, and being on a boat of any kind, fun. I did manage to learn a bit too, and loved the Pont Neuf, with it’s history of not being the newest bridge as its name would suggest, but rather the oldest. It was called new at that time (XVI siecle??) and was the first bridge constructed that people did not live on, as previously the bridges had all had houses on them. The reason that they didn’t want houses on it was that it blocked the view to God (and perhaps to Notre Dame???) I don’t want to spread unhistory hear, so I’ll stop, but I loved all the sculpted masks on the side and the simplicity of the construction, and o.k. — the history.

Our idea of going directly to the Eiffel Tower is defeated because the lines are a mile long and the heat is intense. We decide to go back to the hotel (Daisy is waiting patiently for us in the room), grab lunch, see Paul off to the airport, and regroup. As we promene le chien, we come upon one of my favorite stationery stores, filosofi, at 68, rue de Grenelle. This sparse yet elegant boutique does for stationery what Paul Smith does for fashion. Fabulous conceptual things! I plan to order from them this September when I come back for the show. They’re a perfect fit for Basic French. We buy triangular paperclips, carpenter’s pencils with metric rulers and the phrase “which came first the chicken or the egg” in french, journals, pencils, a greeting card, an eraser and sharpener. Beautifully and painstakingly emballé, our purchases are just so chic.

Later that evening, we meet up with Lisa and Henry at Agnes B on rue du Jour to catch les soldes. I buy a fabulous little black cotton dress (big surprise), matching jacket with funky collar and a great t-shirt — all moins 50%. This little street, next to Les Halles, is my favorite. All the Agnes B stores are located here, homme, femme, enfant, bébé. Hallie locates the missing top to a bikini we bought on sale last summer in Lyon and Abbie, a pink cotton cardigan, like the ones I wear. Lovely. I’m all shopped out.

Next door is the beautiful gothic Cathedral St. Eustace and it’s vibrant Place. Isa and the boys arrive in the chaleur (c’est encore la canicule) and the girls are once again reunited with their summer friends. In the middle of Place St. Eustace, there’s a huge statue of a head on it’s side. The children run around and play what is now called “Au Chat,” but used to be called “Au Loup” — what we know as tag. I wonder why the name has changed for this generation? I guess there aren’t a lot of wolves around in France these days (not a lot of wild animals in general we notice, though I have some stories to tell...)

Chinese dinner in the 2eme arrondisement on Rue Montorgueil, a street known for it’s assortment of food purveyors, is not exceptional, but the kids eat and it’s too hot to be interested in food anyhow. This very vibrant neighborhood that Isa lives in is getting very chic and reminds me of the East Village. A lot of young funky professional families and great, spacious apartments hidden behind non-descript buildings. In the book, “Almost French,” which I just finished before coming here, the author, whose name now escapes me, an Australian married to a Frenchman, details life in this branché quartier. It’s worth reading about.

Up 4+ flights of stairs to their apartment and for dessert, Magnums, (or an equivalent) the girls’ favorite ice cream bars. The five children run around and tear up the house, so to speak, playing Star Wars. The girls are Padmé and Leia. It’s amazing how they can all just go with the flow and move past the language barrier.

Our attempt to find a taxi in this neighborhood is brief and we decide to take the metro which is fast and easy. I never take taxis when I am in Paris alone, but it has seemed easier than the subway with the kids, dogs, and oppressive heat. En plus, I still feel jet-lagged and I think the girls do to. Tomorrow we will brave the crowd at la tour Eiffel.